Installing Your Bar Rail
Installing
your bar rail is a relatively easy task.
You’ll need
a few basic tools which you probably
already have or can purchase at most any hardware store.
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Materials and
tools that may be needed
depending upon your application
- Hacksaw
or large tube cutter or chop saw with metal cutting blade
- Pencil
or Non-permanent marker
- Masking
tape
- Screwdriver
- Drill
- Channel
Lock type pliers
- Miter
box
- Household
Glue, Metal Adhesive, Adhesive Caulk
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Not all applications
will require you to cut your tubing.
In general, if you did not
purchase a prefabricated kit to your exact measurements,
you may need to trim your tubing on-site to achieve the exact measurements
you need.
Tubing cuts easily with a hacksaw,
large tubing cutter or
chop saw fitted with a fine metal cutting blade.
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If you have a kit with 3 or more sections, simply
remember that two of the sections will always be longer than the others.
This is done to achieve consistent bracket spacing.
THE LONGER SECTIONS ARE ALWAYS PLACED
AT OPPOSITE ENDS OF THE BAR RAIL.
If your tube comes in sections, you’ll be using
splices. To insert splices into tubing sections, simply squeeze
the splice with your hands or a pair of channel lock pliers until compressed
enough to insert… then insert splice half way into tubing and release.
Repeat for other end of splice. Compress only enough to permit
insertion --Do not compress so much as to bend splice.
splice may be split brass tube or steel sleeve
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If
required for your installation, use a hacksaw or chop saw or tubing cutter
to cut the brass foot rail tubing to the proper length. To achieve proper
bracket spacing that will permit you to cover
any seams, always cut equal amount off of each tube on a given side. If using a hacksaw, you may want to use a miter
box for the best cut. File off any burrs after you finish cutting the tube. If your tube is in sections, you’ll want to make
your cuts on the sides at which you’ll be placing the internal splice.
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Place the mounting brackets onto the brass tube.
Position the brackets on the floor and the bar, and mark and drill pilot
holes.
The brackets should be placed no more than 5’ apart and should be
spaced as evenly as possible. For the best
look, do not place brackets at the very ends of the tubing, whenever possible. We recommend an inset of 4”-6”.
Screw the mounting
brackets in place. If one end
of the tube will be close to a wall, you'll probably need to attach the
end cap or decorative finial before attaching the brackets to the floor
and wall.
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Place brackets on tube.
Space along tube as required.
Drill tube using guide hole in bracket. Use
#30 jobber bit or equivalent for screws size (available at most hardware
stores). Use the self-tapping screws,supplied
by 4Rails.com, to attach brackets to tube.
Attach brackets (with tubing) to bar: Drill
bar using guide holes in bracket. Use woodscrews, supplied by 4Rails.com,
to attach brackets to bar.
Apply adhesive caulk or household glue such
as to the decorative finial or end cap, and insert the finial into the end of the
tube . Twist the end cap or finial
for better adhesion.
Some slide over the outside of tubing and may be screwed into place.
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Multi-sided bars with attached sides:
Follow cutting, splicing and
other applicable instructions above but remember that the length of each
side tubing required to be connected will be longer than the bar face. The extra length will be determined by angle
between the sides. This is due to the fact
that the bar rail sits 6” from the face of the bar, so the point of intersection
between two sides is up to 6” longer than the bar side (for outside angles). Lay out all of your tubing on the floor prior to
cutting or attaching sections. Better yet,
place masking tape on the floor to simulate the bar rail and lay out each
splice, bracket, elbow, etc. Make your cuts
so that all brackets are evenly spaced and that a bracket is used to cover
each splice seam.
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